AJ Paisley

Brothers Oregon Coast Trail July 2008

In keeping with our new tradition to do some hiking each year, the bothers Paisley/Rees headed to the Oregon Coast and the Oregon Coast Trail from Seaside to Manzanita. This years attendees were Ken, Rees, and yours truly. The entire trip encompassed more than 35 miles all hiked in what would be three days. The information on the trip seemed strait forward but as it turned out, no one really knew anything about the trip and trail.com was also not in the know when it came to this hike.

 

 

Tossing caution to the wind,we head out Saturday morning for the trail head on the outskirts of Seaside. About two miles away from our hotel was the entrance to what would become a very sweaty hike out of Seaside and into the Oregon forest.

 

I spent some time in Panama while in the Army in the late 80’s and this was a lot like that. We experienced rain forest type hiking with droplets falling from the massive amounts of dew created by heavy fog. The trail was one mud pit after another only separated by slippery roots and switchbacks leading to the summit.

What we did not expect to see where the large trees, many of which had fallen due to some disease that was taking them in large numbers. Most were way over 100 years old.

We made it to the top and started our decent into the Ecola (E-coli) hiker’s camp site. It was just as wet as the rest of the forest and there were only three shelters, all of which were otherwise occupied. Walking down the trail toward the ruins of an old radar station we saw a small site just right for us complete with fire ring. We made camp here and quickly started a fire. This night would prove to be rough for our 40+ year old bodies lying on thin pads on the hard ground in a light rain but we survived.

In the morning we headed out for our next destination at Hug Point. This was the location where we were supported to be able to camp on the beach in one of the few spots not part of a state or city park. We continued down to the Indian Beach parking lot and then back on the trail. We were low on water as our information about water availability at camp sites proved to be false. We stopped briefly at Ecola Beach State Park where we filled up our Camelbacks with water and continued on our way.

We made Cannon Beach just in time for breakfast at “Lazy Suzan’s” Since our first nights meal consisted of snack bars and a bottle of wine that Ken had packed in we were ready for real human food.

Replenished we head out along the beach portion of the hike to Hug Point. Our timing was perfect as we rounded the point at low tide to the location were a ranger mentioned there would be camping.

Once there we realized it would not be safe for us to camp there as the tide was at it highest level and there were reports that people had died camping on the beach when the waves simply took them away. We had already hiked what we though was our limit for the day and were looking forward to resting on the beach. Instead we had to continue past Arch Cape, then across Hwy 101 to Shingle Mills Road and the continuation of the trail. Our feeling was that we could then camp along the trail somewhere and then continue on our way.

After about three more hours of hiking we finally came to a very small clearing with just enough room for the three of us. We setup camp and prepared dinner consisting of dehydrated Beef Stroganoff. It was either really good or we were really hungry. The recipe consisted of three cups of our last water and one of wine (Emeril would have been proud). We boiled the potion and unceremoniously dumped it into the pouch then sealed it… BAM! dinner was served.

Like 5 year olds we were in bed before 8 pm. This night would prove to be more comfortable than the last. The sky was clear, the ground softer, and the weather cooler and less sticky.

So, on to day three and what would end up being the final leg of our journey to Manzanita. The hike for the most part was easy but the last leg required us to walk along Hwy 101 to our final resting place…yes we were dead. After a long lunch at a local place we walked the final 100 yards to the bus stop were we would catch our ride to Seaside.

 

Equipment and training log for the Pacific Coast Trail - Seaside to Manzanita

The first thing I should point out about this hike is that the information I obtained from the rangers at Nehalem Bay State Park and the beach ranger was neither consistent nor accurate. The route was not clear even from the documentation provided. Had we not been somewhat experienced in backpacking and did not see the danger at the Hug Point beach camping site we could have been in real trouble. We were also lucky we were able to continue hiking that day to a place where safe camping was available. Additionally, water was not readily available as we were told. Consideration should be taken when hiking in high humidity environments. You can go loose even more water than hiking in desert conditions.  At the end of each day our clothes were totally soaked through with sweat. We all drank much more water on this trip than even the Grand Canyon.

Finally, this hike is not for the casual hiker. Two of the days we hike 13 - 15 miles.

Here was our route:

Day – 1: From Seaside, hike along the beach heading south until you reach what appears to be the end of the trail. Take a left onto the streets and then right on Beach Dr. Once Beach drive ends at the T, turn right. Near the end of the road is the entrance to the trail head, which is clearly marked. From there follow, the trail until you reach a Y. Take the right fork and continue on to Ecola hiker’s camp. There are only three shelters there and there are no reservations taken. For a more secluded spot, turn right by the large covered picnic table and head toward the abandoned radar installation. Just in front of the bunker you will see a small site with a fire ring. You must camp here. There are no other legal campsites between Ecola and Oswald West other than the beach at Hug Point. This should only be used at low high tides. There is firewood for sale but there is no water there or at the parking lot at Indian Beach.

Day-2: From Ecola hiker’s camp walk down the road to the parking lot at Indian Beach. Walk as though you are exiting the park and to your right is the continuation of the trail. This will take you to Ecloa State Beach where there is water. From there hike along the blacktop road to the town of Cannon Beach. This is your only option for a meal and to replenish your supplies and top off your water. After your break, hike along the beach if possible. There are several places were you have to walk around points so plan your time table for this leg around the tide tables. Continue past Arch Cape to Cove beach. This is where the beach part of the hike ends. There is a small road to your left near the end of the beach. There is not really any way to go beyond this so it should be easy to find. Take this road to the Hwy 101 and turn left. The road you are looking for is Shingle Mills Road. The directions reference Webb road but we did not see it. Take this toward the mountain and start looking to your right. There is a small road with a suspension bridge and the home of a carpenter. This is the trail to Cape Falcon. You will have to spend the night some where long the trail.

Day-3: From where ever you have left off, continue on the trail, which will at some point cross Hwy 101 again. Continue on the course until you reach the Oswald West Park and camp grounds. This is your next opportunity for water. When we were there the Oswald West Hiker Biker camping was closed due to fallen trees so we had to continue into Manzanita to the town hall where the WAVE bus would took us back to Cannon Beach.

Day-4: Hike long the trail from Oswald West toward Hwy 101 and follow the road south into Manzanita and civilization.

Training:
Even though it is listed as a 5 as far as difficulty on trails.com there are sections that are more 6 – 7. Take your time and watch for slippery areas. You should be able to walk 12 miles in one day with a 25 – 30 lbs pack to comfortably do this hike.

Equipment:
Light is always the name of the game with regard to backpacking. In terms of enjoyment and your ability for change your route as needed, your pack weight should always be at a minimum. You will want to carry one shirt for each day that you are hiking since you will be sweaty at the end of each day. The nights are cool but also damp, which will intensify the chill if you are wet when the sun goes down.

You should consider carrying one dehydrated meal that serves the total number of people in your party for each night. In our case we had two meals that served 4 because we were told that we could find food along the way…this was simply not true. We did have lots of snacks to see us though. Each person should be responsible for carrying their own breakfast and lunch.

You must have a way to purify water as there was only two places that we found with clean drinking water (Ecola Beach, Oswald West). With the proper equipment you can find water at the stream on the way from Ecloa camp to Indian Beach and and another stream once you enter Oswald West.

At tent is a must. The Oregon Coast can be sunny one night and rainy the next. You should also consider carrying a stove since there are no fires allowed unless you are in a structured campsite. At least one night you will have to camp in the woods.

Here was my gear for the trip:

1. North Face Scarab 55 ultra light backpack.
2. Kelty Lightyear 45 down sleeping bag
3. Eureka Spitfire II tent (shared with another)
4. Campmore Ultra light sleeping pad.

Although this hike is near civilization, anytime you are making an overnight hike being survival ready is a must.

Common Sense Clause